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Stayed last night at the fabulously cheap Rushmore Express Motel (No Tel) in Keystone SD. No foodies here…. BUT the town is cool; it is a vacation family trap yet is funky with a good coffee joint. Today Mt Rushmore.
Now to catch up a bit.
082418. After the ferry ride from Muskegon to Milwaukee
we stayed in a Quality Inn that Choice should either spend serious $ to fix up or dump from the chain. Even the car didn’t like it. As soon as we arrived, the dash went crazy and the electric emergency brake and Stop/Go systems failed. Found a dealer and we were there at 7:30 the next day with, of course, all systems working fine. The upshot was need for a part the dealer did not have so the remedy was……Duct Tape over the switch because if we use the brake, it may not go off. Welcome to the Rocky Mountains. We called ahead to a dealer in Sioux Falls SD who also did not have the part. Next dealer: Denver!!! Whoa!! No love for Furrin cars in these parts…
Susan experienced her first ChicFil’. I can’t print what she said. Well, I could but her sons-in-law would lose all respect for her.
Petal to the Metal for LaCrosse Mi. SG is headed for a shopping outlet (The Company Store) she peruses on line and LaCrosse is its home town. We search, get at least two bad addresses and then find out it changed its name. The store was disappointing. SG did find the most comfortable chair and ottoman I’ve ever sat in. Fjord. Price not printable and not bought.
LaCrosse in the rain. Lunch for me at Taco Bell (Second only to the Duchess). We snoop around a little. Find BRENNAN MARINE – river tugboat company.
The rain stops and we have dinner at Lovechild. Cool place; great food, so good we ordered a second entree of the orechette and saved it for road lunch the next day. We walked to a folk concert in nearby Riverside Park and found ourselves on the east bank of the Mississippi River.
Then we went in to a bar with a neon sign out front that told the truth:
082518
I-90 toward Souix Falls. We were going there because Margaret Hooton (SG’s son-in-law John’s Mom) hails from there. Southeast Minnesota is first hilly and beautiful, then gently rolling and beautiful. The start of the Plains and the part of the drive everyone complains about. Raining on and off but a very pleasant drive at 80+. Motorhome?? NO WAY. Ever…
Thank God for Sirius and Audible. Radio is mostly “Say Hallelujah Say AMEN!” We listen to Beartown and cruise. Day 2 of Beartown and no end in sight. Beartown should be required reading by every freshman in high school.
So over the past two days I’ve followed John D’s advice and book early. I discover that I can’t get info the first time I type Souix Falls SD. It never pops up. Frustrating…until I find out that the Indians and everyone else spell it wrong. Of course, I have it right…phonetically. The entire world is misinformed on how to spell Souix Falls and I finally realize the error of their ways when I see the name on the side of a building: S!OUX FALLS. They put the “i” in the wrong place and my travel plans suffered as a result. Hmmmmm.
This is one nice town. The drag – Phillips Street – is lined with nice shops – no chain stores, lots of bars (the only place with more bars per foot was LaCrosse) and sculptures that alone are worth the trip.
Footnote from Leland Michigan:
Susan was walking out of a sandwich shop just behind a woman with a sweatshirt with a phrase we MEN have heard far too often. Thought I’d share… Look at those eyes…
Back to Sioux Falls. Dinner by chance at Parkers. Another excellent find. Trouble finding any other choice so we ate there again after SG tried to kill me with a 25 mile bike ride, half into the wind.
Margaret’s home is beautiful. The woodwork is outstanding. It was built by a man who owned a lumber mill. Each bedroom is different. My favorite was the Birdseye Maple wth matching furniture. It is one of a kind and will sell the house.
Sioux Falls – the actual falls – are cool, but not spectacular. The town is friendly, clean and unlike many of the states we went through, they recycle. I think it was just the city. No other town seemed to do so.
082818. The BADASS BADLANDS. On the theory that we should smell the coffee along the way to Rushmore, we departed Sioux Falls early and stopped at a homesteader’s ranch just short of the Badlands. Wow.
My photos didn’t do it justice, so I took a photo of a photo. Mud walls and floors…desolate…..desolate. The family had a 1920 Model T that they often had to pull with a mule because of the terrain.
So we stroll to the Outhouse and Sg pulls open the door and screams…
A few photos from the Badlands do not do it justice. Magnificent. Breathtaking.. If you get out here, don’t pass it by.
We saw much tougher terrain in Phipps-Death Hollow along Route 12 past Escalante State Park in Utah a few years ago but nowhere near as pretty.
Yes, the Luxurious Rushmore Express. Far from it, but clean and friendly. No eggs or sausage at the free breakfast. Good oatmeal and buns. The night we arrived we ate at Grizzly Creek Burgers and had a bison burger so good we ordered another. We were entertained by hummingbirds sucking nectar from several plants. Could not get a pic of the fast little buggers.
Second Time Zone change.
Mount Rushmore.
You’ve all seem the pictures, know the presidents up there.. I was ready to take a quick look and move on. Not so. Mount Rushmore is about why it was built, how and what it means. I was all choked up when we left and am as I type this.
What are we doing to this great country that these men founded, saved, promoted and built?
Well, anyway, locals pointed us to Iron Mountain and Needles Highway. These two form a loop that will take 21/2 hours if you stop infrequently. Stop more and do not pass this up. Iron Mountain roads were built by the WPA in the 30’s. Each one-car tunnel faces Mt Rushmore and the forest is trimmed for the view. The Needles Highway is what the name implies.
Then there is the Needle.
On the way there, Bambi got it. Look who came to dinner:
We counted over 20 Buzzards
Could not leave Keystone without recording this place:
082918 Next day Keystone to Casper Wyo. Casper and most of Wyoming in that area is part of the oil industry. Lots of fracking. No one in the state cares because of the JOBS. Had great trouble finding a good place to eat dinner. I use Trip Advisor a lot and it is usually reliable but I had my doubts. So I went to the desk and asked the cute clerk “If you wanted to go to a restaurant around here where your beau would ask you to marry him, where would you go?” She gave me the same answer as Trip Advisor. So I made a MAJOR mistake and told SG that story. “What kind of Fool am I…?” (Rex Harrison, My Fair Lady, I think. Matt will straighten me out if he reads this crap).
Stopped at Crazy Horse monument site and again felt so sad for what we did to the Indians. This monument and the connected university is the work of one family, privately financed. No Fed $. Rushmore was all fed $.
One lesson learned: when feasible, take the state roads rather than the Interstates. You’ll see a lot more stuff and a lot less people and billboards. South Dakotans love billboards close to exits along the highways. They do help keep you awake and help you avoid stuff.
083018. Running Southwest out of Casper Wy. No interstates between us and Jackson. 20 miles past Muddy gap, we see snow on Glacier Mountain elevation 13,000+. We are in the Plains at 6,562. Words and photos cannot describe this area. Huge, endless, nothing but sagebrush for many many miles. Very few cars. Fewer people. Indian reservations. We just passed two bikers – on bicycles – SG wanted to join them. I welcomed her to do so.
We stop and turn around to get this sign. The SVEEENCERS will understand. Ge Wiz.
This ride has to be one of the 10 best. More majestic and varied than the Badlands. Colorful and awe inspiring. SG was asleep when we went from a plateau into a valley that caused me to draw my breath so forcefully that she awoke.
So, put a notch in your belt with this one on your way to Yellowstone. Make sure you fill the tank before leaving Casper. High test $4.09per at 3 Forks Fuel in Muddy Gap.
We stop frequently and meet Max the yellow lab. We meet Max again at the Togwotee Pass – the first overlook of the Grand Tetons – with Clay and Susan towing their boat. They live in the Black Hills (Deadwood) and vacation in the Tetons at least 5 times a year. No fools, these folks.
Jackson Hole: home of Spencer and Tyler Glod. Our timing is exquisite; Tyler and his roommate are out of town so he offered us his place for 4 days. We turned it down and paid $300+ a night instead. Naaaa…. Thanks Ty and John!!
Jackson is an old cowboy town overrun by over 1M people in season and this is the season. The roads are all just two lane highways in and out of town and it is the only way to Yellowstone from the south. Plan your visit on the edges of the season and bring warm clothes and Money. You will not have the latter when you leave. If you want to see more genuine cowboy towns, take Route 26/287 to Casper from Jackson (the reverse of our ride in) and see Dubois and Lander.
More Jackson later. Planning river rafting and fly fishing. We’ll see with the crowds.