100418: So here we are in St Louis. “Meet me in St Louie…”. We are right at the arch. We walk to dinner under a highway into an area that looks like it had a renaissance but then…? I figure out that the Rams left the city and are back in LA. The stadium is right here and the area is a ghost town. We look up.
What the hell is that?
Dinner nearby at the Four Seasons in the same area. Fancy building.
Changes colors
The entire other side lights up and changes color constantly.
A casino is attached and it is the only sign of real activity. The hotel is quiet. The restaurant is new and very good. It is still overcast and we step out to the 8th floor deck (huge – bar, fire pit, seating area and a two piece band. Nice. And the Arch.
100518: We leave St Louis over a brand new incomplete bridge.
Run…run toward home. I pick Richmond Indiana as our overnight stop.
Along the way, we come upon the coolest catch phrase for an industrial fastener business.
So you think the USA has an evangelist sector? Lots of small town have a lot of churches, but this…
Look at the rock I found.
Richmond: Humidity is back and it is hot. SG walks to town. I drive in and find a cool building – of course, the courthouse.
The town is reviving an historical district. Really a small area, but a Ford Model T museum, a large furniture store chock full of antiques and artifacts (the largest and most complete beer can collection I’ve ever seen), Little Sheba and Zina’a restaurants (not bad) and a first class coffee shop. The floors in these establishments all sloped toward the street. We learn that the building was all industrial factories and the floors were sloped to roll the products out the door and to the nearby train tracks.
Richmond was the epicenter of the black jazz recording industry, recording and selling this music when no one else would (Gennett Records). It was also a huge piano manufacturing town Starr Piano (and later refrigerators).
100618: Pressing toward home, we skip the Model T Museum (sad) and shop briefly. You’ll see our purchase at the entrance to our condo (no, not the rocks).
Is that the St Louis Arch again?? Wrong turn?? Disaster….
It rains a little but most of the day we seem to be chasing the bad weather.
We stop in Clearfield, Pa. This town is hopping. It seems to be the dirt bike – ATV capital of the world. Pickup trucks with ATVS from all over the US – as far as Utah (where’s that?). The town is in reasonably good shape with only a few vacant storefronts. We pick a brewery for dinner – not a lot of choices. The Race Street Brew Works is buried in an industrial park and hard to find. Great beer and they completely change the limited menu every week. Works for them – four years old and going strong.
100718. Next day – Breakfast at Spanky’s Courthouse Cafe. Excellent breakfast.
Onward to Mount Kisko for a special person’s special day. We spend the night with Ashley and Jason H.
100818: We start the day with a walk along an unpaved road bordering a private zoo and secluded homes (Bruce Willis’s neighborhood). Breakfast at the Reading Room in Katonah. Excellent! Then Home.
“Home Again Home Again, Never To Roam Again”…. Not. Both of us want to drive right by and stay on the road. Home is great and great to be here. I really missed all my friend and the two (maybe one) people who’ve read all this tripe.
Roughly 63 days. Just short of 11,000 miles. 19 states (I demand a recount!). This adventure just gave us a taste of how vast and wonderful the USA is. We can’t wait to continue. And we will do so.
Thanks for reading and viewing the pix. And the kind words. We love each and every one or two of you that stuck with us.
Not a lot to say. Watched the Ford-Kavanaugh wars. What an embarrassment for our nation!! “Trow da Bums Out” – all the senators and congressmen. Get $$$ out of politics. Unfortunately, I read a book entitled “A Short History of The United States.” We don’t act any better politically, socially or civically than we ever did. Oh Boy…
Ginnie and Dan hiked us hard in Torrey Canyon, right along the Pacific.
Steps To The Beach
Here’s the Boss
We took full advantage of Ginnie and Dan. They left Thursday and we stayed until Saturday. Grateful guests. The secret is to never let me in, in the first place…
Carlsbad is a really cool town. All the shopping conveniences the world now expects. Nice funky shopping villages with local merchants, eclectic stuff. Encinitas, Cardiff-By-The-Sea. And the Pacific Ocean at your doorstep (not literally). Even the oceanfront properties are 80+ steps to the water. (Who forgot the lemonade?).
So Cali sand varies from black to caramel to white and is soft. They also have more rocks than are presently in my car, but SG is working on changing that. They are all worn round with so many colors and varieties. I collected two – all SG would let me have. “Pay for the gas and shut up.”
The surf was up when we were there. Long gradual inclines from the sea to the beach made long waves and plenty of surfers. Fun to watch. Shoulda tried it. Naaa…
Ginnie showed us a former parking lot that the owner turned into a rock garden. He invited the public to paint beach rocks and place them in his new garden.
Restaurants are plentiful and excellent. We had dinner with my nephew and Godson Chris C. He is a law student in downtown San Diego and a dedicated surfer. We went to Fish 101 in Encinitas, his favorite place. Great to see you Chris.
So on Saturday 0929, SG and I made the inevitable decision: Take A Left and start home. We seriously considered parking the car at an airport and flying home, and then back out to continue the trip.
092918.
Knucklehead Smith is with us again. I left my sunglasses in Ginnie’s car. They went to Scottsdale Az. Fortunately a good (can’t say old) college friend invited us to Tucson, not really far out of the way. I-8 is the only way to go. Another great ride for the first 150 miles through mountains. Very different. It looks like the brown mountains were smashed into large boulders and scattered all over the place.
Then the road goes pretty flat. Actually sandy desert for a while then back to sagebrush. How does that stuff survive? Temperature gets to 105. Fry an egg on my skillet head. Fast. We stop at Gila Bend Az and wash the car – very important – and get food at my favorite Irish restaurant Tac O’Bell. We fly through Phoenix (guess who’s driving), reach Scottsdale and turn south for Tucson. All pretty flat, but plenty of speed – 85-90 and you don’t catch anyone. Nice. Lotsa miles today.
We reach Yvette and Joe’s home just as the sun is setting. What a spot!! Mountains to the north and the City of Tucson laid out in panoramic view to the south.
They are very gracious hosts; we enjoy a home cooked dinner and retire for the evening.
093018: Clem Cadidalhopper (phon) is doing the navigation and takes one exit too soon on the way to Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. Kills an extra 3 hours, but the ride through the Arizona and New Mexico mountains…. Like they say in Maine: “You can’t get there from here.” Well, if you have the time, take State 191 to 78 and fasten your seatbelt for the hairpin turns, gorges, valleys, sheer cliffs and forests devastated by the pine borer. Then take the route I thought I had chosen and continue the ride. State 152 east. 1-1/2 hours to go 27 miles. Many turns at 10 MPH. No guardrails. Makes the Pacific Coast Highway look like an interstate. Great day I picked to take a severe detour. SG not feeling well and she rides the Tilt.A.Whirl with Dennis the Menace at the wheel. (Mario Andretti got off – he couldn’t handle it.)
We get to Truth or Consequences. I chose it for a good stopping place distance-wise. I thought it was an old cowboy town. No. It changed its name in 1950 to celebrate a radio quiz show’s 10th anniversary. Really. The festival continues every year. Fortunately, we missed it.
Food was very good at Arcos Steak and Sea Food (what sea?). Had Halibut simply grilled with lemon juice and spices and perfect vegetables. SG passed up a good cheap dinner. The former name of T or C was Hot Springs – still a big draw with several funky looking spas by the day, hour, week or month. Hmmmm….Happy Endings?? We didn’t hang around to find out.
100118: North on I-25. Home is the goal and the interstates will rule our routes for a while. North through Albuquerque to Santa Fe. Throwing out the anchor for the rest of the day.
Sante Fe (for those politically impaired) is the capital of New Mexico. It has a central plaza surrounded by mostly local stores (Hagan Daas an exception). To me, it looks tired, stained streets, littered and seedy.
The shops are really nice and $$$$. One named Cowboys and Indians is full of hand built specialty furniture. Many tables are inlaid with crushed turquoise in the natural cracks and fissures in the wood. Others have molten copper poured in. The effects are interesting, unique and beautiful. They also carve large decorative lamps out of onyx. Lots cooler than the light bulb I used to put inside a road cone (60’s psychedelic Coles style). Phil O and Louis Q used to laugh at me (why I’ll never understand).
So, does the period go before the parentheses or after?
Lunch is pizza at Rooftop Pizzeria on the plaza. Whoa! Really good, lots of veggies on thin crust. Then we shop and hit an art museum. Later, dinner at La Boca. No TripAdvisor this time. I just looked for the locals (casually well dressed older people going for early dinner). Home Run. Authentic Spanish tapas in a small delightful place. We spent the night in a Quality Inn that was far from it. Clean, but beat bad and left for dead. Smelly. Carpet stained and torn. Lots of deferred maintenance. Actually a little scary. No A/C, refrigerator, ironing board or iron. Going to complain, as is my nature.
100218: Aiming at Kansas City – won’t get there today. North out of Santa Fe on I-25, SG at the wheel and a steady 90 mph and 30 mpg. Then we continued on US 56. We knick the Oklahoma Panhandle:
Then we found Kansas:
Two lane undivided highway. The road inundates, but is mostly straight through farms and cattle ranches. We stop for food and to switch drivers at the Gladstone Mercantile. Gladstone KS. Sign inside states: Population 5.” The lady running the mercantile says that is inaccurate – her granny died at 95 snd they are down to 4. SG helped the local economy considerably by purchasing beautiful Indian-made shawls.
Lots of small towns. You MUST slow down or meet the local fuzz. I followed this big SUV for lots of miles – flying low – as we entered a small town, the sheriff pulls out behind me and flashes lights and siren. I pull over, like a good citizen and he nabs the guy ahead. Whew!
All these little towns are centered on massive grain silos. That’s all there is on the horizon.
So we hit Dodge City KS. A real old cowboy town.
The two best things are the “Welcome” sign stone wall with metal images of cowboys (no girls) and the dinner at Prime On The Nine – a restaurant on a public course. The grilled tuna (me – love Tuna…) and salmon (SG) were surprisingly good. The bartender Kaylee was from Oklahoma City and could not say whether her home town or Dodge was better…. Dodge lacked a restaurant district in its “old town” or any restaurant area at all. We were steered to Applebees (avoided so far) Mickey D’s and other epicurean delights. TripAdvisor saved the bacon (no – the fish). We met two guys who buy and sell oil pumps/. A few good stories.
And Dodge? Here is the big deal in Dodge:
There is good coffee at Red Beard Coffee Shop. Otherwise, skip the tourist stuff in Dodge – empty storefronts after the re-created cowboy town. We didn’t pay the admission.
One other thing to see: Go to the Boot Hill Casino parking lot and look out. All you see is prairie. HUGE. Another note: The flies are awful because of all the cattle
100318: So we get the Duck Out of Fodge banging up Billy Joel on Sirius heading toward Kansas City – Kansas City Here we Come!!! (couldn’t help myself). An I-70 Kansas warning sign:
We got there kind of late and definitely beat – driving too much really and seeing little. KCMO is a cool town with a lot to do and see and we skipped it all except for dinner (and a Yankee Wild Card Win!!) at the Chop House. Excellent lamb chops. There is a lot of places for music and bars. Lots of fountains. I’d been before to the Negro Baseball Hall Of Fame (informative and sobering) and the jazz museum. We plan to return for an extended weekend. SG found knitting on steroids:
100418: Breakfast at The Farmhouse – farm to table stuff, really fresh and good. KCMO trolley right outside the door.
Dorothy is long gone from Kansas:
Back on I-70 to St Louis. Rain closing in – another car wash – I think there are still a few bugs left in the west, but I got most of them.
Hampton Inn in St Louis at the Arch (which looks cool; the outside temp is 56! What??? Yes, 56. And cloudy. So we may just soldier on. Lots of miles to cover to get Home Again!!
091618: We leave the Ritz with an ongoing dispute with the total over a room rate and a free breakfast. (092418: still unresolved, but SG is on it with full force – Move over Conrad!!).
I say it almost every day when we are on the “back roads”. Unbelievable. etc… We head south on state 89 from Kings Beach, destination far away – Monterey. Well, I pre-pay for these hotels so let’s hustle!! This is along the west shore of Lake Tahoe. The road winds and bends around the lake, anywhere from lake level to 500 feet up. We cannot stop and take pictures because all the road side spaces are taken by Tourists!! Most memorable is Emerald Bay.
Then the scariest little part: at 500 feet up, the road narrows to two 10’ lanes and the shoulder falls away – completely. COMPLETELY!! On both sides….No room to pull over unless you want to park 500’ below. I’m developing a nice little aversion to high bridges. This helps a lot.
By comparison the Kit Carson Canyon pass is tame, but actually far from it. More majestic views.
We travel 3-1/2 hours and only drive 63 miles. Monterey still a LONG way off. We stop in Jackson Ca. for a shopping break. Cool little old area like a cowboy town Main Street.
Made a mistake – not taking care of the hypoglycemia and by the time we get around Stockton and on freeways I am paranoid of SG’s driving. With Absolutely No Reason – she is a great driver, slower than me, cautious but handles the car well. I never experienced that degree of paranoia except on bridges. Lesson learned = EAT, Dummy!
Monterey Ca. We get there later than we wanted, delayed by a search for tinkletoriums strangely lacking once we get off The 5. (Cali slang for interstate highways: ”The 5”; The 101.”). We are in the farmland of the nation. We pass several tandem trucks loaded with tomatoes. Mega farms. Huge irrigation systems. Thousands of acres, many apparently ready to harvest, but only small clumps of 10-20 vehicles and the workers hand picking crops. Apparently Hispanics (Migrants?) Furriners taking American jobs? Maybe, but there are no Americans waiting anywhere I can see to take those back-breaking jobs.
Yes, Monterey. Well, we rely on Trip Advisor and go to Crystal Fish, a local place. Excellent reviews, but not a lot of them compared to the Honky-Tonk Cannery Row. Crystal Fish on Lighthouse Av is an oasis for a tired traveler. Beer and Wine only, fast courteous service and no pretensions. Then we take a look at Cannery Row. On the water, always a plus, but Totally Tourist. We didn’t spend a lot of time in Monterey. Quality Inn again, North Fremont St. Nice, clean, in a mixed Hispanic neighborhood, but cheap.
We go to Asilomar State Beach. KELP!!
We witness cloud formation right before our eyes. The famous fog that keeps all the trees and plants along the coast so green forms when the ocean air meets the warmer land.
We go on and take the famous 17 mile drive. We almost balk at the $10.50 charge for the ride. Glad we didn’t This is the tour of Pebble Beach. Don’t cheap out; it is more than worth it. Wealth? Did I mention WEALTH??? The kicker is that this drive was created in 1881 (no typo) so all could experience this beauty.
Dinner in Carmel-By-The-Sea. Very Uptown. No Gap or MickeyD here. TripAdvisor says “You’ve reached your destination” for Il Fornaio. What? Where? Go down the alley and enter. Wow. First Class. All locals looking at two ragged refugees from a day in the car. My hair was perfect.
091718. The day I’m to meet Steve and spend some time. Slowed the Blog considerably. We drive to Oakland to meet Jacklyn L (SG’s niece) and her two kids. I had a lot of fun with Niko, the four year old. Good boy; listens to old men. I hit the road for Redwood City to meet Steve. I pick him up at the office.
We drive out to an area on SFO bay, but still in the lagoons. We pass through a marina (Wow) and wind up at the end of the drive. There is a large fenced off area with a new building with huge security. Barded wire fencing. Someone is kiteboarding so we walk that way. At the end of the compound, there is a ramp leading to a long dock. At the near end, there is an Aristotle Onassis type boat with all sorts of snorkeling gear hanging in the raised open stern. More toys – jet skis, tenders etc. Everyone on and around this ship is FIT. Not a little fit – James Bond FIT. Men and women.
We chat up the guys that are kite boarding. English chaps – close mouthed – speak when spoken to – and one was the Captain of the Ship. I could not avoid feeling that these guys were like the equivalent of Navy Seals.
Steve and I have dinner at a place in Belmont Ca. Steve and signs warn of smash and grab artists in all areas. This is less than 100 yards from Oracle headquarters. Nice neighborhood. I learn this is endemic in California these days because it is no longer a felony.
091818: I drive Steve to work and spend the day kicking around Redwood City. Not bad. We eat that night at The Striped Pig. Excellent burgers, salad and olives.
091918: SG and I meet by BART in SFO to meet my brother Matt. SG and I challenge Matt to show us something we haven’t seen in SFO. We go to 16th Avenue Steps and Grand View Park. We are greeted by our raptor host beginning his noon meal of fresh rodent:
The park is aptly named.
Our price for the tour was that we had to go to a listen to a panel of advisors for a moot court debate at Hastings Law School where Matt teaches constitutional law.
The lecturers presented their views on an issue of whether a florist could turn down a request from a gay couple to supply flowers for their wedding on the basis that it was the florist’s right to refuse on religious grounds and the florist’s expression of free speech in thecae of a Washington state law prohibiting discrimination (Matt, you cannot correct my misinterpretation of what it was all about). Anyway, Matt was a panelist and succinctly stuck it up the a… of the knucklehead representing the florist. The audience of 90+ students cheered wildly!
Matt, David, SG Steve and I have dinner at Wonderful in Millbrae. Chinese food. David orders (He is Chinese) and calls us all Yankee Dogs and orders strange dishes for us and a glass of water for himself.
SG and I spend a noisy night in a Quality In in San Bruno. Avoid it at all costs. Well, not maybe all costs. It was clean and ok, and not too many planes flew over. And at over $285, it was by far the cheapest place in the entire area.
092018: Susan and I get on The 1. Cabrillo Highway. The Pacific Coast Highway. It is cooler than a mashed potato sandwich. Cliffs shear to the water from 600 feet or more (or less). Surfers, lots of tourists, magnificent coastline. We took lots of pics; provide the tequila and you can see them all. Here are a few:
So, having lucked out in Challis, ID and seeking more small town places, I pick Ben Lomond. We are looking for a redwood forest. Big Basin Redwoods State Park. It’s on the map bordering The 1. But not really. Dirt path. NG for the A7. So we go to Davenport Ca. And brave the stoners.
We take a left and participate in Mr Toad’s Wild Ride!! Light, dark, twisty like a Twizzler – up the mountain and DOWN the mountain to a tranquil place that gave birth to these awesome trees.
Then Ben Lomon – my experiment in small town places. Quality Inn, nice, clean. Its neighbor:
Dinner: we chose some place in the next town. We get there and they had a power outage and …..no dinner. The BarKeep (and the people chained to their bar stools) recommend Casa Nostra and tell us to ask to sit in the “Tavern.” We always sit in the bar, so so what? Well, the tavern are a few tables surrounded by Redwoods. 19 of them.
Did I not say that Ben Lomond and a few other small towns, Boulder Creek and Elton are in the middle of Big Basin?
092118: Back on The 1. More pacific. Ho Hum…Long ride to Lompoc Ca., closest town to Vandenberg AFB. Thought about two small towns but went to the Hilton Garden for SG. (she can’t take too much Quality – her folks raised her right). Ate local again. Scratch Kitchen. Walked there. Maaaveloussss Darling. The bar flies were a little irritating. We ubered back to the hotel.
092218: off on The 1 to Santa Monica. Traffic awful. Fast but organized. Lots of signs. They have signs for the signs. I splurge – SG had done all the wash – so we head for the Palington House. 3 blocks from the ocean, in the middle of town. A dream – and not outrageous.
We go to Santa Monica Beach and enjoy the sun.
That evening, we visit Donna L, a lifelong friend of SG at her home in Westlake Village. I decide on a short cut to get there and we go up and down Topanga Canyon Road, home of the mudslides. Easy to see why. Donna serves us a delightful dinner.
We return by the Malibu canyon road and wind up at Pepperdine U campus.
Every year for several years, Pepperdine displays a flag for every 9/11 victim. Sobering.
092318: Must See: Muscle Beach
We are off to see Dan and Ginnie M, SG’s sister at their home in Carlsbad. I moan about the traffic all the way. Once here, the weather goes from perfect to cloudy all day. Well, Ginnie and Dan are great hosts and we will be here (without blogging) for a while. Their home is peaceful, quiet and lovely with hummingbirds in the back yard and warm (not sunny so far…) weather.
091018 Bozeman. Taking us forever to get going in the AM. Not what you think. Nice downtown. Old storefronts all with fancy local stores. Nice stuff. $$$.
The Lark Motel; not a No Tel anymore.,.Converted 1960’s place. Clean, a little spartan and $$. Downtown and walking distance to everything else, so a good choice recommended by Tom M.
They cherish their soap. It was good stuff – I tasted it.
Satisfying breakfast at JAMS. Waitress recommended Palisade Falls. Off we go, east of town “20 minutes” she had promised. Must have been Lawyer time. Very windy road down a canyon, to a dirt road, then another two miles crawling to avoid dust (hopeless) and stones. Then another mile hike uphill to the falls. Well worth it.
This trip killed the day. So we took our time and went to a sushi place for dinner. Good, but follow the rule: Never Eat Sushi if it was delivered the prior week. No untoward consequences.
091118: never a good day. Where were you that morning?
Dragged our butts around to breakfast at JAMS. SG went to the hairdresser. Hit the road for Challis ID after collaborating where we wanted to go. Destination: Lake Tahoe via Challis and Winnemucca NV. The ride from Bozeman was….i’ve run out of words and didn’t take photos. Suffice to say that Back Roads Rule!!
A few other rules – good ideas for a trip like this. Take paper maps. Download each state’s “511” app. The “511” number only gives info for the state you are in, even when it is a state highway crossing state borders. So you need the # for the other states. Easy: it’s “511.” You just have to be in the state you seek information about when you call. Apps don’t help when you lose connectivity. You lose cell service often, so call ahead if you think you are getting in to questionable territory (wild fires, road closures etc.). Keep the tank over 1/2 full always; you can go lots of miles without a gas station
Way Out West where the drivers are pretty good, the marking for passing zones are for shit. They often start on curves – blind curves. Be really careful. Also, any vehicle coming at you is doing 75+mph. The A7 is a monster – has hit 100+ passing other vehicles, meaning the impact if you misjudge is oblivion.
Ghost Towns that Thrive: Wisdom, Montana.
We entered 4 buildings here. A restaurant (hoaky, country, clean and nice folks) a hotel (built 1904 and completely re-done western country, with a post office and a picture of a bear chasing a biker on a snowy road), a shop with more ginder and kitches than most malls. They survive on bikers!! the non-motorized kind.
Challis: nothing but the best for SG.
Actually a very pleasant guy – Bob – is fixing up this motel for his daughter to take over. Clean, roomy (BR and Studio – kitchen) but not especially cheap. Food at the Village Inn Ok. Breakfast there better. This is the heart of fly fishing and hunting country in Idaho. A heliport at the edge of town is supporting fire fighting operations. Scary.
091218 We are making long runs these days toward Redwood City to meet Steve. Eight hours planned today. Idaho is …loss of words again. Rolling farms with mountains in the distance.
Then, out of nowhere, literally, a canyon. Sorry. Looks sideways.
Shonone ID provides a break for lunch (grilled hot dogs) and Ice Cream, and two delightful people behind the counter.
Then a big miss. In Twin Falls, ID< we pass over a chasm in the middle of town. Looked deep, maybe 200 feet. Later found out it was close to 500! right in the middle of town.
Nevada:
you can tell you are there by: the casino at the border town, OR terrain flattens out (still beautiful) OR the slot machines in every store, gas station etc., OR the bullet holes in the road signs (pretty good shots out here).
So we spend the night in Winnemucca Nevada.
TripAdvisor recommends the Martin Hotel. Cool place, good Plentiful food, and here starts a story. Put your feet up and here we go.
There are two young men sitting at the bar, Nick and Abe, maybe in their 30’s. Susan chats them up; Nick is a Chiropractor and practices in town. Abe is a lifelong friend who now lives in Boise. Somehow we get to water skiing. Nick says he skis all the time. He says he skis on the best boat ever – a 1981 Sanger with the flattest wake ever. He shows us a picture.
He is reluctant but when he hears that I ski double boot slalom, and dragged my vest all the way here, he says let’s go tomorrow AM. Tuesday is his day off. Abe backs him up all the way. Abe recommends the Griddle for breakfast.
Nick says he has a haircut at 8:30 and we can meet at the lake after that.
Nick tells us where to go. I readily agree especially because it is west on I-80, right on our way. He says it’s a reservoir called Rye Patch. We part with assurances for tomorrow.
Now, a little background. We got to the Martin Hotel around 8:15. These two guys had been there since 6:30 drinking whiskey on the rocks. They had 3 each while we were there. No signs of inebriation. Hmmmmm.
I’m so excited I wake at 2:30 and can’t get back to sleep.
091318 I rouse SG at 7:00 and put on my bathing suit under my shorts and we hustle to the Griddle. Hit the road by 9:00. We get there at 9:45 and wait.
THERE IS NOTHING out here except a trailer park and an exclusive fishing camp. I text Nick after 1/2 hour. No answer. We go look at the lake – deep in a canyon, narrow, long and flat as a pancake. I’m salivating. Placards about fishing, camping. Hmmmm.
So just before we give up, Nick texts and this ensues.
I wonder if the whole thing was BS. I Google the Rye Patch and it is a ski lake. I google bone crinklers in Winnemucca – none named Nick or Nicholas. Too cold, my ass. 65 degrees and warm water.
I’ve been had – either stood upon by a two hung over dudes, or thoroughly hoodwinked. That night in the Ritz at Lake Tahoe we laugh hysterically!!! Me, practically wetting my pants that night inn anticipation. Me, doing yoga stretches in front of 4 semi’s pulled off the road. Me, like a little kid staring at the lake..Wow. Chump. Turkey.
So Nick: We’re still out west. We may return to Winnemucca. You never know. Either come clean or look over your shoulder.
We come into Tahoe from Reno. We opt back roads again and arrive in King Beach. The wind is UP!!! We sit for the afternoon.
091418 Next day, we visit Truckee. Camp little town, nice shops. The SqueezeIn is very cool.
Writing all over the walls and now marked by us.
We shop then we ship stuff we bought over the trip.
Then we again follow a bartender recommendation and check out Donner State Park and Donner Pass. Sad story. Death on the trail. A little cannabalism to survive. We go to the Donner Pass. No words again.
091518 Another long day planned. It’s a 3 hour trip via interstates; we elect back roads and take closer to 7.
We go south on State 89 along gthe west border of Lake Tahoe. OMG. The roadsides are jammed with tourists parking, so no photos. However, you must make this drive as a passenger. It is breathtaking, scary and magnificent. At one point, the road extends no more than 22 feet wide with sheer drop offs on BOTH sides. Two way traffic…Whoa!! Then Emerald Bay…………
This is not Emerald Bay
We continue down State 88 through mountains, canyons, valleys and little else.
These pics cannot justly demonstrate the depth and expanse of the area.
Then a nice surprise: Jackson Ca. A little town trying ton preserve a cowboy look. Ok, but see Wisdom Montana above.
We arrive in Monterey Ca. Dark. We pick a spot (Tripadvisor) called Crystal Fish and enjoy a fine sushi meal. After dinner we walk the Honky-Tonk parts of Monterey that attempt to capitalize on Steinbeck and the cannery history. Ok, clean, but touristy. The aquarium is highly rated, but we don’t get there before it closes.
090418 Steamboat Springs. There has to be a better word than Yuppies; the town is loaded with $$, upscale skinny snow-skiers making a living and waiting for snow. BEST Breakfast Freshies. Stores,stores and then a few more. I test rode a collapsible E-Bike. Lots of fun, fast enough, a little dangerous as you e used to acceleration without effort. Niiicce. He store was closing down – last day – free shipping – SG would have none of it. She wants to sweat!!
Route 40 up, into and over the Rockies. Often scary, Breathtaking views. Hairy, fast drives on two lane roads. I follow a tanker truck and this Caddy Escalade with Colorado plates and a lead foot and we fly through farms, fields, hills and breathtaking vistas and landscapes.
We hit I-70 and the rain and hail starts. This road is treacherous after the Eisenhower Tunnel and Georgetown Co – an oasis. Narrow, winding, two lane, tons of traffic and so much rain that the road is hydroplaning hell. Wayz redirects us through the city because the beltway is at a standstill. It pours all the way to Denver Audi where the A7 will get a checkup from the neck up. Emergency brake switch restored!
We get a loaner and drive to Bill and Cathy D’s home. We are privileged to join in the celebration of Janelle’s birthday – undisclosed but clearly under 40. Mark (her H) and Bill were Marine 2d lieutenants in Nam – talk about friends for life. I fall asleep face down in my dessert and a long travel day comes pleasantly to an end.
090618 – 090818
Denver is a clean, friendly city. 300 days of sunshine a year. Fast melting snow. Great restaurants, sports teams. Steve, when small, used to call the team the Denvro Broncos. We went there to meet an old law school buddy, Bill D. Two other fellas could not make it, so they get posted.
Jack E, a life-long hockey nut who knows the game and all the players. Back then he knew Gordie Howe and his sons Mark and Marty. He is currently manipulating the state of Texas to the will of his clients.
John V, one of the brightest rednecks I ever knew. He and I have also talked sporadically and even sent each other cases. I missed seeing both these guys – next “reunion” in Texas – in the winter!
Bill is a retired federal judge. Fascinating stories from a friend that I hadn’t seen since Anne and I saw him for dinner in Mystic, Ct in 1974. Only 44 years, so we dropped in and stayed for 3 nights. Cathy, Bill’s wife, is beautiful, quiet, kind and a great host.
Cathy’s nickname is Nagagator, earned while traveling with friends while Bill drove his Lincoln Navigator. Not assigned by Bill; he is much smarter than that.
Bill and I have talked sporadically over the years. We hit it off like we talked and saw each other often. What a wonderful experience. And a life-long friend. Cathy and Susan hit it off and the days in the company of the D…s’s flew by. We saw the Denver Botanical Zoo, downtown Denver and Bill’s firm (all retired judges doing mediations and arbitrations), had dinner at CRU Wine Bar on Laramie Street, saw Union Station, all revitalized, and walked and rode 16th Street, a closed to traffic area downtown.
Friday night Bill and Cathy treated us to dinner at the Castle Rock Golf Club. Waaaaay up above the town: sunset over the Rocky Mountains…Wow…a once-in-a-lifetime experience even if we go back before the next 44 years go by.
Brian McN I saw a lot more often – at GU reunions – the last time was 2010 (only 40 years) right after Anne passed away. Brian knew Anne well. He and I were frat bros in an illegal (not recognized by GU) frat based around WGTB, GU’s radio station. Anne was at Marymount College in Northern Va and her best friend was Carol McN, Brian’s sister. So we partied a LOT back then. Brian and I supplied the boys and the Jungle Juice; Anne and Carol supplied the girls.
Brian is one of the funniest guys I know – we just start feeding each other one-liners. He also has a great heart and dedicated his career to the betterment of public education – the last stint coaching principals in inner-city schools and setting up an organization to carry the work on. Thanks Brian.
Susan met Brian at breakfast Thursday morning at Snooze, a breakfast place that should be on your list.. Donna came to breakfast the next morning while Susan and Cathy were doing other things. Too bad. Donna and Susan would have hit it off. Bill D went to that second breakfast and he, Brian and Donna hit it off. Made me feel really good. The unifying force was the Tweeter In Chief. Bottom line: we are all very scared about what he will do on any given day, especially if a crisis arises, and whether he will ever be held responsible for his conduct with a packed Supreme Court. We pray for Gens. Kelly and Mattis. Bill D had met Mattis personally and was very impressed – a regular guy.
090818 Saturday, we depart. We meet Rob Rancourt of the Svencer Clan and his friend Carita. We met at Syrup, another Denver breakfast place. Much better corned beef hash at Snooze. Carlta loaded us up with tomatoes and sent us on our way.
Heading north on I-25. No real alternative to get up north. We chose to go north because it’s getting cold, the leaves are turning in Jackson and Denver, and we want to see Montana, Glacier Park and east Washington state before it gets really cold. We packed for summer, so up we go!
Colorado north of Denver along I-25 is not pretty, and, like the city and its environs, is riddled with TRAFFIC!!
Another border. Glad to be back in Wyoming!! For me, the prettiest state yet.
Chugwater, Wy. The wind pushes the A7 like a toy on a perfectly clear day. Back in the land of mesas and buttes.
We watch huge storms miles ahead and to our left spit lightning as they move across our path ahead.. Getting dark and no where near Sheridan. We are both worried about animals crossing the highway. Big lit warning signs about animals every 20 miles and Colesie is roaring – A7 Smokin!! We arrive OK having murdered so many bugs that the bees are all over the car in the AM.
Susan picks a restaurant off TripAdvisor – Frackelton’s. Another solid pick. We sit at the bar as usual and the lady next to Susan chats us up. I mention that Wyoming is the prettiest state we’ve seen and the lady starts off with a description of all the sites in Sheridan. She states “I’ve never been in a town like Sheridan where all the people speak so positively about their town – love it and would not leave.” They introduce themselves as they leave as Mike and Melissa. I ask for the check – we’re exhausted after 6 hours on I-25 then I-90. Bartender says they picked up your meal, Wow. Little did they know that they bought us our lunch for the next day as well!
Susan and I are discussing the free meal and she decides the lady is a local promoter of the town etc. So morning comes and I track her down – the bartender spilled her last name. Melissa Butcher. Sheridan Wy. President of this and Chairman of that etc. LinkedIn of course. So I send her a personal invitation that opens “Ambassador Butcher…”. No response yet.
090918. We take the route Mike and Melissa recommended – through the Bighorn Mountains, State Route 14 and 14A (closed in winter). Another spectacular ride.
We take about two hours to see the Medicine Wheel. It’s a burial ground 5 miles from a paved road. Park Service pisses me off – they’ve removed all descriptive plaques, so I wind up walking a mile further than the Medicine Wheel. This pic is halfway back to the car.
Anyway, the Medicine Wheel appears to be a central stone grave with stone spokes radiating out to a stone wheel surrounding the center grave. There are other graves, some large, a few small. There are many small little pieces of cloth, velvet, colored that appear to either be wrapped around a rock or (my pick) someone’s ashes. There are hundreds of them, but strangely they do not detract from the solemnity of the site. I feel a strong urge to leave a piece of Anne there, so I do so figuratively. 7 places for Anne. I feel a piece of her resting on that pinnacle called Medicine Wheel.
All told, 6 hours for a 3 hour trip. Well worth it for what we saw.
SG Screamed as I Shot This One With a Sheer Drop on The Right
SG navigates glaring sun and BUGS on I-90 to get us in to Bozeman and dinner with Jake M.
Jake is the son of our dear friends Tom and Amanda M. He is on his way through Navy enlistment, a slow process because of the type of assignment Jake is pursuing. We have a wonderful dinner at Open Range.
I have a problem with these blogs. I’m running out of adjectives to describe how special each day is on this trip. It’s hard to imagine why all the folks in the east don’t move out here. One reason is the short summer; another is no salt water, but fresh is exactly that and easy to get used to.
Just left Jackson Hole. No interstates out here to avoid. Heading to Green River Wy on the way to Denver by way of Flaming Gorge and Steamboat Springs.
083018
We went to Jackson to visit SG’s son Spencer, her youngest. We stayed in her other son Tyler’s apartment in town. Our timing was perfect: Tyler and his roommate were out of town. Jackson is one of the sweetest spots you can imagine. The town is nestled among the towering peaks of the Grand Teton mountains and several lesser hills (hills…really? By Ct standards they are Mountains!!).
083118. Anyway, one wakes in the AM to 34 degrees and crisp humidity-free air. As soon as the sun begins to clear the horizon, it warns you with persistent dry heat. By 10:00, it is high 70’s and still dry. Se were blessed with 4 days like this.
Spencer and Jackie are at work and SG and I tour the town. It is a vibrant community full of extremely rich people and rich tourists wannabes. UberRich like Walmart heirs, Harrison Ford. Also lots of families having a great time. Wood sidewalks. A stagecoach ride. A Sheriff on horseback. Lots to do, laid back, slow tempo and polite people. Very pricey shopping.
Saturday 0901. Another month behind us in a year with wings. We had breakfast at Nora’s, actually famous through Diners, Dives etc TV show.
Then we hiked to Ski Lake. Thought my lungs would explode. Got a little used to it. Spencer moved out there 6 years ago and he didn’t break a sweat. He carried me…not really, but I wish he had. The views…the views. Spencer has a son = Leo. Four legged Leo. Great dog. Impetuous, free spirit; listens to Daddy.
Spencer took this one. He swore he caught a bald eagle in this shot. The degradations I have to endure…
Here is the gang, in order of importance: Leo, Jacqueline (very nice, intelligent, fun and funny), SG and me.
You may have to look very carefully, but we found Bullwinkle.
Not so careful. I blew him up. NO, this is NOT one of those steel cut-outs you see all over the place out here.
090218: Spencer, Jacqueline, SG and I go white water rafting on the Snake River. Class 2, so not so big but a great time. The Snake is over 1,000 miles long from its headwaters in Yellowstone Park. It joins the gulf of Mexico in Mexico.
The latest Tweet from the Tweetie Bird in Chief: “The Snake will no longer be allowed to leave the US with US water…..” Not Fake News. How about Woodward’s new book?
So they promised a nice view for our pizza dinner. Really shabby. The whole Teton range from the top of a meadow overlooking the National Elk Preserve. I repeat…OMG.
090318: Spencer and I go fly fishing on the lower Snake. Saw 4 bald eagles. They all gave me the high sign as a bald brother…I think that’s what the white stuff was on my shoulder. I think…. We caught a dozen fish, all small but pretty.
BUSTED!!! It had to happen. Susan read the blog. She denies her shenanigans at the Holiday Inn Express in Carlisle Pa. Honest folks, its true…
Green River Wy. Skip it if you can.
Two good things: The Hampton Inn and Suites nestled at the base of majestic mesas.
I forgot what the other one was. It wasn’t food (#1 restaurant on TripAdvisor is the Hitching Post) where Happy Hour STARTS at 7:00AM for two hours. No foolin) or the massive rail yards. It is famous for being the starting point for John Wesley Powell’s expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers.
So I noticed that despite my best efforts to keep the gas mileage high through reasonable driving, it is slowly decreasing. I can’t understand it..Every day and every stop it gets a little less. Could not figure it out…until I found Susan’s souvenir rocks. ROCKS..hidden all over the car. There Will Be Consequences.
090318: Green River to Steamboat Springs via Utah.
Back roads again. State 520 south. Don’t take 191. You will miss the Flaming Gorge in ASHLEY National Forest.
The scenery is unbelievable, especially when you read about what these layers of earth mean. 150 Million years or more of geology on display. Many of the creatures are fossilized and found here in the millennium they existed. It is a time clock on the world. And a sad one. a plaque told of the time periods over which much of these creatures went extinct. The final note is that the rate of extinction of animals is much greater now than it was back then. Hmmmm….
Utah labels every layer as you drive down (and lots of up) on 520. Jurassic period – types of stone and fossils described.
If you are out this way, Flaming Gorge is worth the extra time.
End of Utah: strip mines of very large areas for ??; Wyoming has strip mined coal.
We approach the Rockies from the west. Steamboat makes Killington look like a pebble. I can feel Rick S getting a little pissed off.
Colorado starts ugly. Here we are. (SG made me walk back to the sign because she blew by it).
The very first thing we saw…
It also starts rather flat and plain. Then it gets farmy, hilly and green.
One thing irks me about most of the states we have traveled through since Pa. They don’t recycle. Some towns do – Sioux Falls, Jackson – but not the states. Landfills prevail. Lots of land to fill, but really.
Colorado: Coal fired power plants and 100+ car freight trains loaded with coal.
Then Steamboat Springs. Wow. Trendy town. Sophisticated. BIG change from Casper, Green River. We shop tomorrow then hit the road for Denver, Bill D (U of Houston Law) and Brian Mc. Georgetown. Go Hoyas!!
Stayed last night at the fabulously cheap Rushmore Express Motel (No Tel) in Keystone SD. No foodies here…. BUT the town is cool; it is a vacation family trap yet is funky with a good coffee joint. Today Mt Rushmore.
Now to catch up a bit.
082418. After the ferry ride from Muskegon to Milwaukee
we stayed in a Quality Inn that Choice should either spend serious $ to fix up or dump from the chain. Even the car didn’t like it. As soon as we arrived, the dash went crazy and the electric emergency brake and Stop/Go systems failed. Found a dealer and we were there at 7:30 the next day with, of course, all systems working fine. The upshot was need for a part the dealer did not have so the remedy was……Duct Tape over the switch because if we use the brake, it may not go off. Welcome to the Rocky Mountains. We called ahead to a dealer in Sioux Falls SD who also did not have the part. Next dealer: Denver!!! Whoa!! No love for Furrin cars in these parts…
Susan experienced her first ChicFil’. I can’t print what she said. Well, I could but her sons-in-law would lose all respect for her.
Petal to the Metal for LaCrosse Mi. SG is headed for a shopping outlet (The Company Store) she peruses on line and LaCrosse is its home town. We search, get at least two bad addresses and then find out it changed its name. The store was disappointing. SG did find the most comfortable chair and ottoman I’ve ever sat in. Fjord. Price not printable and not bought.
LaCrosse in the rain. Lunch for me at Taco Bell (Second only to the Duchess). We snoop around a little. Find BRENNAN MARINE – river tugboat company.
The rain stops and we have dinner at Lovechild. Cool place; great food, so good we ordered a second entree of the orechette and saved it for road lunch the next day. We walked to a folk concert in nearby Riverside Park and found ourselves on the east bank of the Mississippi River.
Then we went in to a bar with a neon sign out front that told the truth:
082518
I-90 toward Souix Falls. We were going there because Margaret Hooton (SG’s son-in-law John’s Mom) hails from there. Southeast Minnesota is first hilly and beautiful, then gently rolling and beautiful. The start of the Plains and the part of the drive everyone complains about. Raining on and off but a very pleasant drive at 80+. Motorhome?? NO WAY. Ever…
Thank God for Sirius and Audible. Radio is mostly “Say Hallelujah Say AMEN!” We listen to Beartown and cruise. Day 2 of Beartown and no end in sight. Beartown should be required reading by every freshman in high school.
So over the past two days I’ve followed John D’s advice and book early. I discover that I can’t get info the first time I type Souix Falls SD. It never pops up. Frustrating…until I find out that the Indians and everyone else spell it wrong. Of course, I have it right…phonetically. The entire world is misinformed on how to spell Souix Falls and I finally realize the error of their ways when I see the name on the side of a building: S!OUX FALLS. They put the “i” in the wrong place and my travel plans suffered as a result. Hmmmmm.
This is one nice town. The drag – Phillips Street – is lined with nice shops – no chain stores, lots of bars (the only place with more bars per foot was LaCrosse) and sculptures that alone are worth the trip.
Footnote from Leland Michigan:
Susan was walking out of a sandwich shop just behind a woman with a sweatshirt with a phrase we MEN have heard far too often. Thought I’d share… Look at those eyes…
Back to Sioux Falls. Dinner by chance at Parkers. Another excellent find. Trouble finding any other choice so we ate there again after SG tried to kill me with a 25 mile bike ride, half into the wind.
Margaret’s home is beautiful. The woodwork is outstanding. It was built by a man who owned a lumber mill. Each bedroom is different. My favorite was the Birdseye Maple wth matching furniture. It is one of a kind and will sell the house.
Sioux Falls – the actual falls – are cool, but not spectacular. The town is friendly, clean and unlike many of the states we went through, they recycle. I think it was just the city. No other town seemed to do so.
082818. The BADASS BADLANDS. On the theory that we should smell the coffee along the way to Rushmore, we departed Sioux Falls early and stopped at a homesteader’s ranch just short of the Badlands. Wow.
My photos didn’t do it justice, so I took a photo of a photo. Mud walls and floors…desolate…..desolate. The family had a 1920 Model T that they often had to pull with a mule because of the terrain.
So we stroll to the Outhouse and Sg pulls open the door and screams…
A few photos from the Badlands do not do it justice. Magnificent. Breathtaking.. If you get out here, don’t pass it by.
We saw much tougher terrain in Phipps-Death Hollow along Route 12 past Escalante State Park in Utah a few years ago but nowhere near as pretty.
Yes, the Luxurious Rushmore Express. Far from it, but clean and friendly. No eggs or sausage at the free breakfast. Good oatmeal and buns. The night we arrived we ate at Grizzly Creek Burgers and had a bison burger so good we ordered another. We were entertained by hummingbirds sucking nectar from several plants. Could not get a pic of the fast little buggers.
Second Time Zone change.
Mount Rushmore.
You’ve all seem the pictures, know the presidents up there.. I was ready to take a quick look and move on. Not so. Mount Rushmore is about why it was built, how and what it means. I was all choked up when we left and am as I type this.
What are we doing to this great country that these men founded, saved, promoted and built?
Well, anyway, locals pointed us to Iron Mountain and Needles Highway. These two form a loop that will take 21/2 hours if you stop infrequently. Stop more and do not pass this up. Iron Mountain roads were built by the WPA in the 30’s. Each one-car tunnel faces Mt Rushmore and the forest is trimmed for the view. The Needles Highway is what the name implies.
Then there is the Needle.
On the way there, Bambi got it. Look who came to dinner:
We counted over 20 Buzzards
Could not leave Keystone without recording this place:
082918 Next day Keystone to Casper Wyo. Casper and most of Wyoming in that area is part of the oil industry. Lots of fracking. No one in the state cares because of the JOBS. Had great trouble finding a good place to eat dinner. I use Trip Advisor a lot and it is usually reliable but I had my doubts. So I went to the desk and asked the cute clerk “If you wanted to go to a restaurant around here where your beau would ask you to marry him, where would you go?” She gave me the same answer as Trip Advisor. So I made a MAJOR mistake and told SG that story. “What kind of Fool am I…?” (Rex Harrison, My Fair Lady, I think. Matt will straighten me out if he reads this crap).
Stopped at Crazy Horse monument site and again felt so sad for what we did to the Indians. This monument and the connected university is the work of one family, privately financed. No Fed $. Rushmore was all fed $.
One lesson learned: when feasible, take the state roads rather than the Interstates. You’ll see a lot more stuff and a lot less people and billboards. South Dakotans love billboards close to exits along the highways. They do help keep you awake and help you avoid stuff.
083018. Running Southwest out of Casper Wy. No interstates between us and Jackson. 20 miles past Muddy gap, we see snow on Glacier Mountain elevation 13,000+. We are in the Plains at 6,562. Words and photos cannot describe this area. Huge, endless, nothing but sagebrush for many many miles. Very few cars. Fewer people. Indian reservations. We just passed two bikers – on bicycles – SG wanted to join them. I welcomed her to do so.
We stop and turn around to get this sign. The SVEEENCERS will understand. Ge Wiz.
This ride has to be one of the 10 best. More majestic and varied than the Badlands. Colorful and awe inspiring. SG was asleep when we went from a plateau into a valley that caused me to draw my breath so forcefully that she awoke.
So, put a notch in your belt with this one on your way to Yellowstone. Make sure you fill the tank before leaving Casper. High test $4.09per at 3 Forks Fuel in Muddy Gap.
We stop frequently and meet Max the yellow lab. We meet Max again at the Togwotee Pass – the first overlook of the Grand Tetons – with Clay and Susan towing their boat. They live in the Black Hills (Deadwood) and vacation in the Tetons at least 5 times a year. No fools, these folks.
Jackson Hole: home of Spencer and Tyler Glod. Our timing is exquisite; Tyler and his roommate are out of town so he offered us his place for 4 days. We turned it down and paid $300+ a night instead. Naaaa…. Thanks Ty and John!!
Jackson is an old cowboy town overrun by over 1M people in season and this is the season. The roads are all just two lane highways in and out of town and it is the only way to Yellowstone from the south. Plan your visit on the edges of the season and bring warm clothes and Money. You will not have the latter when you leave. If you want to see more genuine cowboy towns, take Route 26/287 to Casper from Jackson (the reverse of our ride in) and see Dubois and Lander.
More Jackson later. Planning river rafting and fly fishing. We’ll see with the crowds.
Riding the Lake Express Ferry from Muskegon Mi to Milwaukie Wi. First Time Zone change!!
Since the last note, we have seen a lot and done little.
081918
Detroit: We started the day coming through a tunnel from Windsor. Customs a breeze. The officer was thrilled that we were traveling the US and chatted us up while a line of 20 cars behind us waited.
We drove the city a little – very clean. We saw Tiger Stadium
We located a park (Marsius) (sp) that was famous for just hanging out. We parked and walked into a street music festival.
We went into the PARC restaurant and
Bloodies were great and made ourselves. We walked the festival and went back to lunch at PARC. Great food. Thanks to Kyle (the bartender) and Scott (manager). Scott recommended we go to Torch Lake near Traverse City, a place selected by SG. Later about that.
I had bought a tour from a Tours & Travel app. If you ever see this guy while in Detroit,
RUN! He was billed as a non-professional that had a great love for Detroit. The only thing he loved was walking our as…. off to get in his 3 hours. What we saw was cool but I finally had to rent bikes to see a few things.
Old Railroad station now owned by Ford – spending $722M to convert to a driverless car research center. By the time Ford renovates this wreck, we will all be self levitating and cars will be obsolete.
Back to PARC to quench thirst after wearing out 3 pairs of hiking boots…
Stayed at a Red Roof Inn in Dearborn. Not the best choice but SG liked it because it was CHEAP. Had a lousy sushi dinner and the next day discovered we were very close to excellent food.
We toured the Ford Museum of American Innovation. By itself it was worth the trip!!!
Cars!!
For Lou
082018
Headed to Traverse City with a plan to stay 3 nights. LUCKED in to a restaurant called Poppycocks on Front St. Wonderful food. Traverse City is in northwestern Michigan but well before the Upper Peninsula.
this is a pasta cooker, powered by steam that circulates in each kettle and heats the pasta water or sauce etc. Fast, perfect
082118. The next day it rained and we went shopping….yeah…shopping in a cool little village nicknamed Fishtown. Remote, quaint, peaceful little town with a very unusual name – Leland. No foolin’.
So while there, this lady walked by us with a sweat shirt slogan I hae heard wayyyyy toooo often
082218: we are in desperate need of exercise so we rented bikes and rode @15-20 miles on flat land around Traverse City. It is at the foot of West Traverse Bay and the heart of Cherry Country. Loved it. Ate again at Poppycock. Went to the top of the tallest building in town at night and saw the lake and region. Nice…too bad the summer lasts a nanosecond.
082318. On the way to the ferry in Muskegon we stopped in a little town called Manistee. Really cute – a local museum that puts Frankie’s junk store in Fairfield to shame. The town was build on timber mills and shipments by water and railroad. It has retained and refurbished its Main Street and there is a lot in the region. Between this town and Traverse City, it is a good pick for a summer vacation and antiquing.
Ferry is a hydroplane carrying 40+ cars at 32 knots!!
Can’t pass up a run in the Gut with the Mombo Ski Club.
Back on the Road… 081718
Today’s Theme: HooooooooLeeeeeeeeeSh…t
I started this sojourn on the sage advice of John D of St Ann Drum Corps fame. He claimed to have transversed the US with two basic rules:
1. Find a place to stay by 1:30.
2. Find a place to eat by 4:30.
On the first leg, I was skeptical and violated the rules at will with no consequences.
Yesterday, I got my comeuppance. We rolled all day in horrible FRIDAY traffic. (No, we didn’t leave on time). We were rerouted from the Cross County, up the Sprain and Taconic to the new Tappan Zee (Beautiful bridge) and down I 287 to 80 West. That sucked until we got well west of the Delaware Water Gap. I enjoyed the view there while Susan drove.
We flew out 80 without a care in the world, heading toward Oil City Pa where oil was first drilled for in the US. The scenery is beautiful – rolling hills and the Allegheny mountains. We ran in to what looked like a fog bank sitting in a valley; it was RAIN and a lot of it. Otherwise a very pleasant fast drive on good highways.
We got off 80 in Clarion and found ALL hotels booked on all websites.
My respect for John D’s Rules increased. We lucked out when Susan volunteered to make all the beds at the Holiday Inn Express. I got a room and she worked. Not bad…
Not really. Susan bolted the next morning rather that fulfill her promise. Not unexpected.
Food Rule: More respect. We chose Local rather than Applebees and ate at the Clarion Brewing Company. The beer was very good; my crab cakes sucked; Susan’s fried haddock was good. So I poached from her as much as I could until she drove a fork into the back of my hand and threatened worse.
The bartender said skip Oil City and recommended a hike in the Cook Forest and kayaking in the Clarion River. I told him to put the crab cakes in the kayak (they’d plug any leaks – worked for me).
081818
We had a good breakfast in a local greasy spoon – The County Seat in Downtown Clarion.
Worth the stop. I bought a pink hat and SG hasn’t noticed it yet. I’m going to wear it until she does…. Did by Mile 130 in Ohio. She claimed that she had noticed it earlier but she was driving and could not comment.
The town also has a classic county courthouse, now a Chamber of Commerce and the old jail behind it. Photos on the Other camera and I lost the cord to transfer!!! Arguhhh!!!
=And we are moving on to Detroit. Staying in Windsor ON – Already booked by 9:30 AM….
You’ve got to love the state slogan. “PURE Michigan”…This first appears at the state line, right before a sign: “Flint 102 Mi”. Free water anyone?…
Windsor via the Ambassador Bridge.
Some people you just can’t get away from…. See the street sign.
Cool town. Lots of Millenials and bars all centered on Ouellette Street. Even a Gentlemen’s Club. But I don’t know what that is and SG would not let me inquire. She said there were no gentlemen there. What??
And look what it got us
Restaurant “Fourteen.”
Yankee $$ doing well up here. Room and dinner cheap.
So we antiqued around Canandaigua. Susan bought a scarf but lost the negotiation. Shopkeeper would not budge, especially when she passed it up but came back just before closing.
Lunch at Eddie O’Brien’s sucked. The food was good but the good looking waitress with the huge..eyes..never came back. And I didn’t jump in the lake.
Dinner was a special treat. Hard to find real good food and we lucked out. Susan chose THAI BY NIGHT. The small board out front said:
“We_Will __We_ Will ..WOK You” guitar riff… Just beer and wine but the best Thai dinner I’ve had in a long time.
081218
Heading to Skytop Pa.
We took back roads from Canandaigua to Watkins Glen. Stopped to Shop. Then back roads through the boonies through Colesville, then Stratton and then Spencer to Owego. Stunning courthouse on the Susquehanna River.
An Owl with Cataracts
Skytop is a resort with its own zip code – 18357. The Cotter Family vacationed here for years, bought a cottage after the still unexplained demise of the MadMaMare. We drove in and the huge sign said SKYTOP LODGE 90TH ANNIVERSARY. I gave it some thought and here I was 50 years after the Cotters first introduced me to Skytop.
For those that know, we stayed in a cottage. First walk was to the Observatory on a perfect evening. And there was some skinny kid with hair straight off his head driving a mini bike through the flower beds…DeJa Vu, all over again.
The place looks great. Gardens really colorful. Place is also changed. Dinner is by payment and not meal plan. The food in the dining room and the deli (?) is superb!! Every activity costs, but it still by far and away the most relaxing, unpretentious and peaceful place I’ve ever been.
081318
Buck Hill is doing well. The mansion is down and its location is used for a lookout and weenie roasting. And Other Affairs, with the permission of the Community Board.